THE ISLE OF CAPRI and wait! THERE'S MORE..

There is so much in Italy to see and absorb that two years are not even enough. I am ashamed to say that I never appreciated the opportunities that I had while in the Navy in Naples and even when I went back after I got discharged. I did take advantage of living there on my return more than a ‘tourist’ did as I had more time and I knew my way around.



My favorite place in Naples was the ‘Galleria Umberto’. A picture of it is above. It took up a whole city block and had 4 entrances. One from each street. The entire building was covered by a glass domed roof. Sort of a ‘Mall’ as it had shops of all sorts and Gelatto and café bars.



There were tables and chairs all over where one could sit and have a coffee or beer or just read. Quite like here now with the Starbucks and such. But this was in the 1950’s. Down below was a nightclub called ‘Kit Kat Club’. The building was built in 1885 and probably hasn’t changed in all that time. Outside on one street was the San Carlos Opera House which, unfortunately, I never went into.



The walk along the Via Caracciolo which is a long stretch by the sea is always beautiful. It was always filled with boats going back and forth to Capri and Ischia isles. Also, more than an occasional fisherman from the shore and always young lovers sitting on the walls. There were a lot of restaurants down by the water. You can believe the fish on the menu were fresh. The was one called the ‘Zi Teresa’. Actually, it is still there. It was started in 1916.



When I had not been in Naples very long, still in the Navy, some buddies took me there the first time. It was beautiful. Right next to the water and a canopy over the top. One of them told me to order the steamed clams. Now, being from Illinois, I had never eaten clams or can’t even remember seeing any. When they brought them they were steaming and open and alien to me. They told me to squeeze some lemon on them and when I did they suddenly curled up and I thought sure they were still alive. They all had a good time with that one. I did eat them, however. The food was delicious and the violinists were playing old Neapolitan music and the place was full and the wine was, well, what can I say! A memory all by itself.
Posillipo is a section in the hills above the Bay of Naples. The most beautiful view of the Bay is from there. There are Restaurants along there that makes a double treat for a newcomer to Naples. You have the great food and drink and the view to enjoy at the same time. There is the ‘Funicolare’ which you can ride up the hill if you aren’t driving. (And who would, in Naples?) It is a Tram that goes on a track straight up the hill with stops every so often. A must do for newbie!



There are also the Isle of Capri and the Isle of Ischia. Personally, I liked Ischia better as it was less travelled and less crowded and not as ‘rich’ which drew the ‘rich’ crowd to Capri. At least, I felt more relaxed there. Funny thing is, that if you mention Capri, everyone has heard of it. Mention Ischia and chances are they may not have heard of it. The one thing that Capri has is the Blue Grotto or the ‘Grotto Azzuro’. A picture of the outside entrance is above. It is the one thing to do if you go to Naples. I call it one of the 'memorable' sights I have on my list. Getting into it is not easy and is impossible in any choppy water. But on a beautiful sunny day at the right time, it will blow you away. This is a view from inside and it doesn't even do it the justice it deserves.








When I visited Ischia the first time, I and Larry S., a ship mate and a good friend, rented kayaks and paddled out to a rock formation which was farther than we should have gone. We touched it, which was what we decided to do in the first place, and paddled back. The water was beautiful and was not really deep which gave it that greenish blue clear color.



That evening we went to this club that was almost as if it was in the side of a mountain. A cave, if you will. When we got inside it was open at the top. I am pretty sure it was called the “Monkey Bars”. This was in about 1953. I have searched the web and have never found anything about it. We met a couple of girls before we went and they are the ones who took us there. We dined and wined and even danced, sort of. Not my thing. It was a great evening, however.
In all the time I spent in Naples, There are two things I never did. Visit Pompeii and Mount Vesuvius. I don’t know why. It just never was a priority. I should have but I truly enjoyed my time just walking around the cities and watching the people and sitting at outdoor tables with a beer or wine or even a coffee and eating, of course. There is an old saying “See Naples and die”. If there is a way that I wind up alone in life and I am physically able to get there, then that ‘Ole Maxim” could come true.